[ RURAL RAILWAYS IN FRANCE ][ CHEMINS DE FER RURAUX DE FRANCE ]
The railway line from Clermont-Ferrand to Ussel was opened in June 1881.  It joined a section from Tulle to Ussel which had been opened in September 1880.  The line was operated by the COMPAGNIE DES CHEMINS DE FER DE PARIS A ORLEANS known as the P.O.  The P.O. had expanded to the south and to the west from its base in the Gare d'Austerlitz in Paris since 1840 by construction of main lines to ORLEANS, TOURS, BORDEAUX, NANTES, LIMOGES, PERIGUEUX.  The P.O. also grew by merging with some of its smaller rivals.

The ambition of the P.O. was to open a route to the Mediterranean in competion with its great rival, the P.L.M.   But the government consistently chose the P.L.M. for the most favourable routes to the south.  So Clermont-Ferrand was linked to Paris and to Lyon by the P.L.M.  But with the opening of Clermont-Brive, the P.O. now controlled both the cross country routes to Bordeaux.  The northern route was via Gannat, Montlucon, Gueret, Limoges and Périgueux.  This line has easy gradients but requires three time-consuming reversals of direction.  The Clermont-Ferrand - Ussel - Brive - Périgueux route has severe gradients of 1 in 40 and often severe winter weather,  both of which render operations difficult.   But only one reversal, at Tulle, is needed.  However the northern route was preferred  for the long distance trains from Bordeaux to Lyon and Grenoble.

Let us now visit the Clermont-Ussel section of the southern route across the Massif Central to the west on board the only long distance cross country service remaining on this line, the "Ventadour", Lyon - Bordeaux express which ran on Fridays and Sundays in the winter of 2003.  In 2007, the train runs only on Saturdays from Bordeaux to Clermont-Ferrand and returns on Sundays.
Nov 7th 2003. Clermont-Ferrand
One of the new X73500 diesel railcars operated for the account of Auvergne Region waits to depart with the TER at 13.09 for Montlucon via St Eloy-les-Mines.
Steam was withdrawn at the end of the 1960's and replaced by diesel locomotives.  On the line to Brive via Ussel, 35 year old class 67000 diesel BB locomotives now haul the long distance cross country services between Lyon and Bordeaux, in pairs or singly depending on the weight of the train.(see below)
The 67400 loco shown opposite at Clermont-Ferrand is painted in multi-service livery and a similar loco brought the west-bound Ventadour into the station right on time from Lyon at 14.17 this Friday afternoon, Nov 7th 2003.    The train consisted of  five Corail coaches, the centre one being 1st class.

This Corail express no longer runs between Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand
I boarded the train which left Clermont-Ferrand (altitude 401 metres,  1,300 ft) on a steep climb at 1 in 40 which  continued for the first 29 km (18 miles) of our journey.  The double track line wound around the southern side of the city whose urban area totals 260,000 inhabitants.  After a few minutes, our train stopped at the spa town of Royat-Chamalières, a stylish station with a large platform canopy. On departure, the Ventadour had a non-stop run of one hour to the junction station at Laqueuille.
We continued to climb at 1 in 40 and after passing through four short tunnels we passed through, without stopping, the station of Volvic, located far from the village.  Mechanical signals start here and continue all the way to Ussel.
Shortly after Volvic, we left the line to St Eloy-les-Mines to our right and continued to climb, now on single track, to our first summit at the station of Le Vauriat - 880 metres, 2,860ft.  Then a steep descent through fields and woods to Pontigibaud where we turned along the Miouze river valley.  At the station of La Miouze-Rochefort (46 km from Clermont-Ferrand) we crossed the Mont-Dore to Clermont afternoon service operated by an X73500 which was tucked away in the loop as we passed through.  A steep 1 in 40 climb was resumed for the next 18 km to the summit at Laqueueille.
It is 15.30 and we have arrived at Laqueuille, summit of the line at 950 metres ( 3, 087 ft) and junction with the line to La Bourboule and Le Mont Dore.  On another day, a Brive - Clermont-Ferrand service operated by an X2800 plus trailor approaches the station in front of three mechanical signals and the former depot which houses a small snow plough in the winter.
Laqueuille station retains a unique island platform sheltor in wrought iron (below).
After departure from the plateau at Laqueuille, we descended at 1 in 40  for 13km down into a wooded river valley at Bourg-Lastic.  The station is located far from any village and in past times no doubt the Hotel de la Gare that we see in the photo above would have been well filled. 
We crossed here the Limoges-Clermont-Ferrand service operated by twin X2800 railcars.  With no delay we proceeded forward and passed under the new A89 motorway which provides stiff competition to the train where speeds are limited to 65-85 kph (40-55 mph)
The next halt was at Eygurandes-Merlines, junction with the line from Montlucon.  
After a two hour journey, the Ventadour had covered 105 km
(65 miles) from Clermont-Ferrand and prepared to descend past Ussel East Box and into Ussel station located at 600 metres altitude in the department of Corrèze, Limousin Region.
For more about Ussel station click here.
16.14 - Nov 7th, 2003.

Here I left the "Ventadour" which continued its journey, leaving Ussel under the magnificent signal gantry in the sunshine of a November afternoon. After further stops at Tulle, Brive and Périgueux as well as at smaller places, the express from Lyon
( 11.08) would reach Bordeaux at 20.14.
Since Dec 12th 2004, this through Corail train has been limited to Clermont-Ferrand - Bordeaux and now runs once a week only, on Saturdays from Bordeaux to Clermont-Ferrand, and a return on Sundays.

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References

Les Chemins de Fer Paris-Orléans, by Jean-Pierre Vergez-Larrouy, ( La Vie du Rail/La Régordane, 1997)
Sur les rails du LIMOUSIN, by José Banaudo and Fabrice Lanoue, ( Les Editions du Cabri, 2003 )
Le Triangle du Cantal - I Bort-les-Orgues  -  Neussargues, by Patrick Garinot ( Presses et Editions Ferroviaires, 2001)

Rail Passion No 43, November 2000.Article about Brive - Ussel - Clermont-Ferrand by Bernard Collardey  
More about Ussel
copyright reserved / J.G.Skinner / 2004 - 2007
CLERMONT FERRAND - USSEL ( Massif Central )
Page revised in March 2008
WARNING !
Currently there are no train services from Clermont Ferrand to Ussel except on Sunday afternoons. There are no train services from Ussel to Clermont Ferrand except for one evening train on Mondays to Thursdays, two evening trains on Fridays and one train on Saturdays.
Some autocar TER services are provided to replace the trains
There is no official explanation for the absence of train services.

Message dated March 2008.